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Before I went to India, I was warned that it could potentially have a life-changing impact on me. And it did.

Days after I returned from Mount Abu, via Ahmadabad, Mumbai, Doha, Dar es Salaam and Johannesburg, I am still struggling to get to grips with what I had experienced and how it has changed my life, I think, forever.

I went to India to attend the Call of the Time Dialogue, an initiative of the Brahma Kumaris World Spiritual University. It was held at Abudhan, the headquarters of the Brahma Kumaris, and a beautiful and peaceful campus called Gyan Sarovar high up in the mountains.

It was an amazing experience with people from about 26 countries, all grappling with how we can turn the world into a better place for all.

All of us who attended were asked to practise a vegetarian and non-alcoholic diet for a week or so before the dialogue, something I admit I only practised a few days before I left for India.

Since leaving India, I have stuck to the diet and intend to stick to it.

It is not based on anything spiritual, which was the nature of the dialogue, or suddenly being an animal lover. It has more to do with the fact that I saw so much poverty in India, yet people get by and even share what little they have.

I realised too that one does not have to kill animals to sustain humanity. The Indians, the world’s most populous nation, sustains almost all their people on simply vegetables.

I want to see how long I will be able to sustain myself on a vegetarian diet.

I was also moved by how the Indians, despite their poverty, display so much pride in what they do. I hardly saw anyone beg, apart from one or two street children, but the majority of Indians would rather try to sell you something than beg.

It’s difficult not to use stereotypes, but many of the Indians with whom I interacted seemed to be natural sellers or bargainers.

Most of the shopkeepers followed a routine. As you walk past their shop, they invite you in, ask you to sit down and offer you something to drink. Then, in case you’re in a shop where they sell linen or cotton, the shopkeeper would unroll and unveil one after the other piece of material, in an attempt to get you to buy something.

I’m a softie, so it was easy to convince me to buy. I felt guilty that this man had shown so much hospitality and determination that I ended up buying much more than I intended.

I also could not resist having him make me a suit, which he promised to deliver within 48 hours and did within 72.

One day, I was walking with two colleagues and we were stopped in an alleyway by a shopkeeper who I had met a few days before. He asked us to come into his shop because he had some “new things” to show us.

My colleague asked him for something specific, which he clearly did not have but he said he did. He asked us to wait and disappeared, leaving three strangers all alone in his shop. He came back a short while later with the required item, and more.

We realised afterwards that, while it was strange and trusting that he left us alone in his shop, we had met him outside in the alleyway and his shop had been standing open and empty at that point.

So much poverty, I thought, but poor people in India do not appear to be taking advantage of other people’s honesty. If this had been South Africa, I thought, the shopkeeper would never have been able to leave his shop open and alone. He would have had to lock it every time he wanted to go anywhere.

As I walked through one of the villages in Mount Abu, I realised that I never felt threatened by anyone, despite all the poverty. And yet, in South Africa, some of us blame the high levels of crime on poverty. There must be another reason for all the crime and violence in South Africa, I found myself thinking.

India is chaotic and disorderly at times, but somehow things seem to work. There are some places, however, where the chaos is overwhelming. One such place is Mumbai Airport.

From the minute we landed at Mumbai, I knew that we were in for a special, if not pleasant experience.

First, we had to wait inside the plane for about 15 minutes after we landed because there were no stairs and when they arrived, they were faulty. Once we got outside, there were only two small buses to take a planeload of passengers. Once the two buses had left, the rest of us had to wait another ten minutes for more.

Inside the airport, the chaos continued. As far as we could see, there were no clear signs indicating where you had to go.

A colleague and I were looking for international departures and were told it was upstairs, but we could not find a lift or stairs. We finally found a lift in a passage and when we got out on the top floor, there were two doors, one, guarded by a policeman, let to the outside. The other was marked “staff access only”. We asked the policemen where we could find international departures and he pointed us through the “staff access” door.

What greeted us on the other side was more chaos, with almost no seating for people before going through immigration. Only on the other side were there proper restaurants and sitting places.

I had arrived at Mumbai at about 10.30pm and had to wait for a connecting flight to Doha until 5am the following morning.

When we finally boarded our flight, on time, we had to wait about 50 minutes for a vehicle to push the plane out of the parking bay. As a result, I missed my connecting flight from Doha to Cape Town and had to reroute via Dar es Salaam and Johannesburg, arriving home about six hours later than planned. In the process, I lost my luggage but I am not going to complain about that.

I think the time I spent at the dialogue, where I learnt a lot about patience and thinking positive thoughts, helped me deal with the chaos at Mumbai Airport and the rerouting of my flight.

I believe that, if ordinary Indians can deal with their many problems without resorting to violence or anger, then why should I get angry about things over which I had no control in any case.

People who know me well know that I can sometimes have a short fuse, so if I stick to this lesson from India, it will have changed my life profoundly.

So, will I go back to India? The answer is definitely yes. There is so much more to see and, who knows, the next experience might be much more pleasant than this one.




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17 Responses to “Lessons from India”

Fantastic Ryland!

I have been vegetarian for 3 years and feel great.

(Report abuse)

toejam on November 19th, 2009 at 4:55 pm

Welcome to the world.

Its what Europeans have been telling you about India since four Liverpudlians called the Beatles went in 1969 to visit the Marareshi Maresh Yogi.

And the “Hippy Trail” started several years before that and continues to this day, as European youngsters in a Gap year or after University go travelling to see the world.

Or the white peasants go for a cheap holiday with rave music in Goa etc etc:

http://www.goahub.com/goa/travel_guide/rave-parties.html

(Report abuse)

Alisdair Budd on November 20th, 2009 at 1:04 am

In India, life is valued as a Gift from the Almighty.
Here in our sunny land, it is the cheapest commodity worth less than a cellphone.

(Report abuse)

old, female on November 20th, 2009 at 6:57 am

Thats a great experience. Hats off for your sustaining spirit on intension to visit again!!!

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Shanmugavel on November 20th, 2009 at 9:55 am

India could be the teacher that SA needs. But first the learner must want to learn. Learning is what all the Indians I have met in India are really good at - old and young, rich and poor. If only SA could increase trade and culture exchanges with India at the expense of China…..

(Report abuse)

john carlisle on November 20th, 2009 at 1:00 pm

“…I realised that I never felt threatened by anyone, despite all the poverty. And yet, in South Africa, some of us blame the high levels of crime on poverty. There must be another reason for all the crime and violence in South Africa, I found myself thinking.”

Finding out this reason, should be the absolute number one priority in this country. Government, journalists, universities, schools, social workers, NGO’s, dinner party-goers, dj’s… everyone should be talking about/researching/debating this one Reason you mention.

I believe this is the most important question in this country. To get to the very root of this question - not chasing after symptoms or side-effects, but the original underlying PRESENT cause(s) that keeps this demon alive.

Maybe this site could start a blog especially for this purpose?

(Report abuse)

toejam on November 20th, 2009 at 2:44 pm

It sounds fulfilling, a friend was talking about her trip to Lagos, Nigeria last week and India was mentioned as a comparison to what is said about the spirituality of Indian people amongst all the poverty. What I resolved about stories from Lagos was how the Nigerian people had become pacified and vulnerable to Christian Crusaders. Yet India is a romanticist paradise filled with hope and faith. Here is South Africa, we still have the opportunity to go either way. With the emerging of Kwela music in the late 1950s and the “happy Africa” sentiments resonanting in the music that was made to warn people that the police vans are entering the township, is the same music that made white people break the boundaries of whites only areas in the parks and danced to the sounds of Spokes Mashiyane. So we have it in us, but we don’t believe in it because we think we have breathe fratenity and ubuntu in instead of breathing out, and we love sabotaging ourselves. let us rid ourselves of the guilt, denial and control, like the man who left his store and returned with the required items and more. We have to practice it to start seeing it, but I don’t think I will give up my meat anytime soon, unless I go on a private jet to India. Something is got to give, for now I remain inspired.

(Report abuse)

Kazi on November 20th, 2009 at 2:51 pm

Only when we have categorically documented the “other reason” for crime and violence in SA, can we start the discussion of real and effective action to dissolve the underlying causes of the extreme violence, greed and cold disregard for life we experience here.

Cries of “bring back the death penalty” or “they are animals and deserve to be shot” bring absolutely nothing positive to the table.

I’d like to make the first suggestion - to me the most obvious condition - the root cause of any unpleasant experience, reaction or situation:

1. The lack or absence of love

(Report abuse)

toejam on November 20th, 2009 at 3:05 pm

@toejam I would phrase it differently, our problem as a collective is a complete lack of profound respect for individual life whatever its form and that includes ourselves.

Thus the place to start is in developing respect for ourselves as the fragile but magical life forms that we are. This requires that we devote time to contemplating what we consider to be what we and our fellows are right now as well as the potentials that lie hidden within each one of us.

(Report abuse)

Rory Short on November 20th, 2009 at 7:20 pm

I’m sure your personal experience of India was life-altering, as was mine. But this blog paints a romanticised one-dimensional image of India. When you visit a place as a tourist (in this case a spiritual tourist) you see what you want to see. India is full of complexities: hope and ignorance, beauty and violance, charm and brutality - much like South Africa.

If you look a little further than the romanticised spiritual India you will find a severely oppressive caste system (yes still today), religious intolerance (Hindu extremism) and mob violence (Bombay riots), terrorism (train bombings), state violence (Kashmir).

If you go to India and read local newspapers you will see what I am talking about. And please do consider the fact that being a foreigner (with money) in India means being treated very differently to other Indian locals.

(Report abuse)

Magnus on November 20th, 2009 at 7:34 pm

@ John Carlisle

“But first the learner must want to learn.”

Alas John, there’s the rub…How many psychiatrists does it take to change a light bulb…

Answer: Only one…but the light bulb has to really want to change!

(Report abuse)

Lobengula on November 20th, 2009 at 10:10 pm

Ryland, I’m glad you enjoyed your brief trip to India.
Like toejam comments, I too find your statement below, somewhat interesting:
“…I realised that I never felt threatened by anyone, despite all the poverty. And yet, in South Africa, some of us blame the high levels of crime on poverty. There must be another reason for all the crime and violence in South Africa, I found myself thinking.”

Hmmm…
Could it be that we continue to ignore the elephant in the room - the ill-gotten gains of the beneficiaries of centuries of white AA in stark contrast to poverty still borne by the majority of SAn blacks. Supposing the rich in India acquired their wealth through discriminatory laws, do you think it they would still live peacefully side by side?
Could it be the the nature of the oppression experienced by the Indians was different from the oppressions of SAn blacks at the hands of the apartheid regime? How does the nature of the brutality differ in both our histories of oppression? Could this explain why we have a higher tolerance for abnormal violence in SA?
Could it be that the nature of the healing process of Indians liberated from British oppression, is vastly different from what SAns have to cope with even today on a daily basis in the new SA? White supremacy is still pervasive in our society - the DA and their policies are living proof of this.

(Report abuse)

Dave Harris on November 20th, 2009 at 10:13 pm

The author didn’t tell you that for a long time that India has practiced a caste system that people are born a certain way and should be happy. After death that person will come back in a higher order of life in the form of reincarnation. Also, he should have pointed out that people are murdered everyday and their organs taken and sold on the black market.

(Report abuse)

Fergie on November 21st, 2009 at 2:54 am

Not to trivialise our own revolution, but I believe that not enough of us saw enough blood and gore, starved enough or suffered enough, to make a firm impression; some still hanker after it as a justified form of self-expression.
This; here and now, is our ongoing revolution.
I remember the faces of people whose friends and relatives were thrown from trains in the late 80s. Their fear was not of white people, but of their fellow black people. This was something that got to them, in no uncertain terms.
A young lass who used to work for me felt and looked the same about ongoing taxi shootings in her neighbourhood.
Unless we have all touched it and felt it, it will not go away.
Take the trouble in De Doorns. We are told it’s not Xenophobic, but a labour issue. The Zimbabweans are paid the same as South Africans. They are here legally, we are told.
I recently had a company working on my property that had hired two Zimbabweans. My hardworking gardener worked with them for a couple of weekends. His opinion? The Zimbabweans, one by trade a chef and the other a science teacher, laboured (moving soil) like DOGS! All day, every day! Were I a De Doorns farmer, I know exactly who I’d be hiring for my money…

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MLH on November 21st, 2009 at 1:18 pm

I find myself suddenly fascinated with the power that writers have, enticing the idea of traveling to India has for me now after reading of your experience. I hope that I may be able to capture my stories in the same way that you have.

(Report abuse)

Robyn on February 16th, 2010 at 4:09 pm

This is a romanticized view of India that ignores the brutality of the caste system, the disastrous environmental conditions, and the horrible treatment of women. Somewhere like Denmark is more sustainable and civilized by far. Spirituality means little if people are hungry, poor, oppressed, living under stone age societal structures, and destroying their environment.

(Report abuse)

Joe on April 4th, 2010 at 6:26 pm

MLH - why don’t you hire some Afrikaners to work like dogs on your farm?

(Report abuse)

Derrick on April 4th, 2010 at 6:33 pm

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Ryland Fisher is former editor of the Cape Times and author of the book Race. This is his second book, following on Making the Media Work for You, which was published in 2002. He is executive chairperson of the Cape Town Festival, which he initiated while editor of the Cape Times in 1999 as part of the One City Many Cultures project. He received an international media award for this project in New York in October 2006.

His personal motto is "bringing people together", which was the theme of One City Many Cultures. It remains the theme of the Cape Town Festival and is the theme of Race. Ryland has worked in and with government, in the media for more than 25 years, in the corporate sector, in NGOs and in academia. Ultimately, however, he describes himself as "just a souped-up writer".
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